December 2004 | Dining
Taste of the Goddess Café
The day that a friend and I chose to meet for lunch at Taste of the Goddess Café in West Hollywood was chilly, drizzly and gray — the kind of weather that calls for a cozy couch, a crackling fire and enough warm and doughy, cheesy and/or chocolaty things to send you into a carb-induced coma. With its small staff and casual, order-over-the-counter service, Taste of the Goddess was definitely cozy, but with its strictly raw/living foods menu, I sincerely doubted the restaurant’s ability to satisfy my starch and sugar craving.
Taste of the Goddess was founded by two raw foodists, Jenny Ross and Nwenna Kai. “We designed this place to feel like a raw version of Jamba Juice,” explained Ross, while my friend and I sipped Monkey Mambo smoothies, a delectable combination of house-squeezed Brazil nut milk, almond butter, banana and cinnamon. Looking around the small café, I recognized the juice giant’s influence on the space — from the simple, straightforward menu, displayed on colorful signs mounted above the counter, to the staff’s welcoming lack of pretension.
“Our goal was to create an atmosphere that wasn’t intimidating,” shared Ross, as she presented a salad of romaine lettuce, seaweed, cucumber, clover sprouts and avocado dressed in a subtle but savory sesame vinaigrette. As Ross emphasized, eating raw is more than just a diet; with each meal she prepares she is sharing her way of life. “Many people turn to raw foods after an illness or an allergy has left them no other choice. They are looking to improve their health, and they have a lot of questions.”
To accommodate the wonders and worries of inquiring patrons, one or both of the owners are always available. “I don’t think I would be able to work these 14 hour days if I weren’t eating raw,” confided Kai.
Sampling stuffed mushrooms, spinach ravioli and red pepper enchiladas, my guest and I were impressed with chef Ross’ ability to turn maca- damia nuts into rich ricotta cheese, and sprouted kamut into hearty pockets of dough. Her magic in the kitchen is a labor of love, as everything served at the café — all spreads, sauces, cheeses, milks, juices and sweets — are prepared in-house from whole, fresh, organic ingredients. “We’re preparing food all day long and into the night,” confessed Ross.
By the time we finished the dessert plate of cranberry tart, fudgy carob brownie and frozen raw chocolate mouse with shaved strawberries, I felt fully satisfied and unexpectedly energized. “Why can’t we eat like this every day?” lamented my friend, as she purchased pesto pizza and pumpkin seed cheese-stuffed tacos to take home for dinner.
And that is the Taste of the Goddess Café’s true draw. While first-timers will have fun guessing which raw ingredients have been masterfully prepared to mimic their cooked counterparts, customers will return for the sheer life force of the food.
Take out/eat in, event catering and weekly home delivery service available.
7253 Santa Monica Blvd. West Hollywood, 323.874.7700 M-Th 11 am 7 pm F & S 12 pm 9 pm www.tasteofthegoddess.com
Eliza Thomas is WLT’s Associate Editor. She looks forward to returning to Taste of the Goddess Café, but wishes they offered reusable dishes and silverware.
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