Illustration: Malcomb Davis
February 2005
Scary Greens
If the sight of kale, chard and collards sends you running back to stringbeans and carrots, get ready to make some new veggie friends.
by Judith Fine-Sarchielli
Have you ever walked the produce section of an organic supermarket, natural foods store or even your local grocery and been intimidated by those strange and sometimes scary greens? Most of us are too cautious to buy them because we don’t know what to do with them once we get them to our kitchens. If you, too, have been stricken by the “scary” greens phobia, you’re not alone. Just the sight of exotic kale, kohlrabi or mustard greens can be downright intimidating.
But even those with the most serious greens phobia would definitely benefit from the extra effort to make their acquaintance. Winter greens are nature’s way of providing us with immune support when we need it most—at the height of flu and cold season. According to Cheryl Forberg, R.D., a Los Angeles-based chef, registered dietitian and author of Stop the Clock! Cooking: Defy Aging—Eat the Foods You Love (Avery/Penguin, 2003), winter greens are rich in vitamins A, C and zinc, all “powerful nutrients in promoting optimal immune function.” A cup of cooked spinach, for instance, packs a whopping 380 percent of the RDA for vitamin A, 30 percent RDA for vitamin C and 1.37 mg of zinc, or 9 percent of the RDA.
Most winter greens are also low in calories and provide significant amounts of folic acid and minerals. Studies show that the phytochemicals present in these vegetables fight cancer and other diseases as well.
While the romaine may not be looking as perky as it did last June, Swiss chard, kale and collards are just waking up in winter. Beets, turnips and mustard greens also like colder climes.
This fall and winter, boost your immunity with vitamins picked fresh from your local produce section.
Arugula
Europeans are more familiar with greens and have incorporated them into their diets for many centuries. A traveler can still drive through the French or Italian countryside and see people of all ages gathering the bitter greens that they enjoy as a healthy and tasty addition to their table. Our European neighbors have learned from their ancestors to appreciate greens’ liver-cleansing capabilities and nutritious vitamins.
Arugula, which also goes by the names roquette, rocket, rugula and rucola, is a Mediterranean plant of the mustard family that grows wild in Asia. It has a peppery taste that compliments such Mediterranean foods as olives, garlic, balsamic vinegar, garlic, tomatoes, pasta, peppers, anchovies and olive oil.
In Roman times, arugula was grown for both its leaves and seeds. Seeds were used for flavoring oils and as an ingredient in aphrodisiac concoctions dating back to the 1st century. Arugula is also excellent sautéed with oil or in pesto, and its sprouts are tender and delicious. Or, do as the ancient Romans did and make a salad of greens and herbs, including arugula, romaine, chicory, mallow and lavender.
Fennel and Arugula Salad (Yield 2 servings)
2 fennel bulbs
2 c. chopped arugula
Juice of 1 lemon
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
1 c. shaved Parmigiano reggiano
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a shallow salad bowl, toss arugula with half of the olive oil and some pepper. Cut the stems and leafy top off the fennel, and slice the fennel into thin segments. Place the fennel over the arugula and pour the lemon juice and the rest of the olive oil on top. Grind on more pepper, and cover the salad with shaved Parmesan. Serve with garlic bread and fresh buffalo mozzarella.
Dandelion
The Greek name for this bitter green plant is Leontodon, a term that describes the jagged edge of the leaf which resemble the teeth of a lion (in French, Dent de Lion).
Arabian physicians documented the dandelion’s medicinal properties in the 10th and 11th century. Dandelion juice has been a staple in health tonics for hundreds of years.
Dandelion furnishes pollen and nectar in the early spring and blossoms from spring through autumn, making it popular with beekeepers. There are many varieties of dandelion leaves. Both the root and leaves can be eaten.
The young, tender leaves are excellent in salads or braised, sautéed, boiled, or stir-fried with a bit of garlic and red pepper flakes. The leaves should always be torn instead of cut to preserve the flavor. When roasted and ground, the root makes a coffee-like drink that is healing for the liver and kidney.
Dandelion Jelly (Yield 3 c. jelly)
4 c. of the yellow parts of clean, uncontaminated dandelion blossoms
3 c. boiling purified water
4 1/2 c. sugar
2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 Tbsp. chopped lemon zest
1 package powdered pectin
Saffron for color (optional)
Pick the dandelions early in the season. Flowers that are fully open work best for this recipe. Pull the yellow blossoms apart from the green parts. Bring 2 cups of water to a boil and fill the boiling pot with the dandelion shreds. Simmer over very gentle heat for 10 minutes. Continue simmering and straining until all blossoms are used up. Add the final cup of water. Strain the water very well using a coffee filter or cheesecloth. Combine water with sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest and pectin. Boil hard for 1 minute, and then skim. Add a bit of saffron to tint to your preference. Pour into clean hot jars and seal. Age the jelly for at least two weeks.
Kale
This crucifer is in the same class as broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower—in other words, all the vegetables people love to hate. But like most strong, spicy or bitter greens, kale’s personality also has a softer side. This winter veggie loves the frost, which gives it a sweet taste you just won’t find in summer.
With 1 cup of chopped raw kale packing 200 percent of the Daily Value of vitamin A—not to mention vitamin C, B6, riboflavin, fiber and amino acids—there’s lots to love about this green vegetable’s immune-supporting properties. According to Forberg, recent scientific studies show that, among cruciferous vegetables, kale has the highest content of the antioxidants beta-carotene and vitamin E.
You can steam kale for 8 to 10 minutes or chop and simmer in 1?2 to 3?4 cup of water or stock to every pound of trimmed greens. For the last few cooking minutes, remove the pot lid, increase the liquid and allow the extra moisture to dissipate.
Crispy Kale Croquettes* (Yield 14 croquettes)
1 tsp. plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 bunches kale (about 2 lb.), rinsed with stems and tough ribs removed OR 2 10-oz. packages frozen, chopped kale, thawed and drained
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 c. unflavored soymilk
1 Tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese
Pinch ground nutmeg
Pinch ground cloves
Salt and pepper to taste
1 c. panko breadcrumbs (see note below)
Olive oil cooking spray
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly coat a 15- by 10-inch baking sheet with olive oil cooking spray. Tear kale into bite-sized pieces. (If using frozen kale, squeeze thawed kale very dry.) Heat 1 tsp oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add kale and sauté until wilted, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute longer. Season with salt and pepper. Drain excess juices and transfer kale to a medium mixing bowl.
Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a 1-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk 1 minute. Avoid browning. Gradually, add soymilk, whisking until mixture is smooth. Cook until sauce is thick, whisking frequently, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Add cheese, nutmeg and cloves. Cool sauce completely.
Spoon sauce over kale. Season with salt and pepper. Mixture should stick together but be dry enough to form croquettes. (If mixture is too wet, add 1 Tbsp. of breadcrumbs to absorb excess liquid.)
Place breadcrumbs on large plate. Using a 1?8-cup scoop or measuring cup for uniformity, form mixture into about 14 marshmallow-sized croquettes. Place croquettes on a plate and carefully roll each in crumbs, pressing to adhere. Transfer to another plate. If preparing ahead of time, cover and chill up to four hours before use.
Place croquettes on prepared baking sheet. Coat croquettes generously with a mist of olive oil spray. Place the baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and bake for about 10 minutes. Turn croquettes with a spatula to brown opposite sides. Bake for about 15 minutes longer or until croquettes are light golden.
Note: Panko breadcrumbs are available in Asian markets or in the ethnic section of a grocery store. Plain, dry breadcrumbs may be substituted.
Mustard Greens
Mustard greens have grown wild around the world for thousands of years. High in vitamins A and C, they are 13.3 percent minerals, low starch and high in folates and absorbable calcium.
Although mustard greens can have a slightly bitter bite, any harsh initial taste quickly mellows under a light dousing of balsamic vinegar. For a milder flavor, you can also blend mustard greens with Swiss chard or spinach, and choose the tender bright green leaves that are less bitter than the older leaves, which work better in cooked dishes, says Forberg. Mustard greens can also be added to soups and stews. They are particularly compatible with bean soup and sweet potatoes.
Spicy Mustard Greens (Yield 4 to 6 servings)
1 onion, thinly sliced
5 c. mustard greens
1/2 c. (or more) vegetable or chicken broth
2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. Chile flakes
1/4 tsp. cumin seeds
1/4 tsp. garlic powder
1/4 tsp. ground coriander
Sea salt
Juice of 1 lemon
In a large skillet, sauté the sliced onion in grapeseed oil until soft. Add the spices and stir for 3 minutes. Add mustard greens and stir well. Add vegetable or chicken broth and cook until tender but not mushy. Dress with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, sea salt and olive oil.
*Crispy Kale Croquettes recipe excerpted from Stop the Clock! Cooking (Avery/Penguin) by Cheryl Forberg, www.cherylforberg.com.
Judith Sarchielli is Cooking School Director for Whole Foods Market, Woodland Hills, and directs a San Fernando Valley Slow Food convivium. E-mail.
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