July 2007 | Tastebuds

Cook’s Double Dutch

The comfort of a sustainable table

by Jolia Sidona Allen | Photography by Caleb Coppola

Jennie Cook — the self-proclaimed “boss lady” of Culver City’s Cook’s Double Dutch — has come a long way from “catering” her brother’s keg parties with chili and cornbread.

But while Cook’s thirty years of culinary creativity have birthed a bustling restaurant, a booming catering business and a “Sustainable Supper Club,” her taste for simple, home cooking and her charming capacity to welcome company to the table remain.

Cook first opened the doors of her kitchen, formerly known as “Jennie Cook’s Catering,” in 1998. Located in the pedestrian hub of downtown Culver City, The Dutch serves an invisible sprinkle of love on every dish, satisfying a stream of hungry television folk, families, lovebirds and locals. As soon as you arrive, it feels like everyone’s been expecting you, and by the time you leave you’re so absolutely at ease that you may be convinced you knew Jennie Cook and co in some other culinary lifetime.

Despite overwhelming feelings of familiarity, Cook’s comfort food is prepared with a unique seasoned palate and worldly spin (think: Mexican Mac with Sun Dried Tomatoes). But what really makes this lunch and dinner spot stand out in LA’s lineup of healthy eateries is its unrivaled ability to satisfy vegans, vegetarians, and omnivores alike. “I believe we can all eat at the same table,” avers Cook. In keeping, her menu features mouth-watering meat substitutes like the Seitan Gyro or the Chicken-less Marsala, alongside bona fide Petite Rack of Lamb or the Ever Popular Turkey Meatloaf. Be sure to save room for dessert. Their vegan Strawberry Shortcake with cashew cream is so pillow-like you’ll actually want to lay your face on it for an after-dinner nap.

Just as comforting as the food and friendly faces is the restaurant’s commitment to sustainability. The boss lady commutes to work in one of two eco-chariots: a burgundy Mercedes that runs off the grease from the kitchen, or a Prius. The seasonal menu always features grass-fed, farm-raised Niman Ranch Specials, local organic produce and vegan dishes. A meal begins with a basket of La Brea Breads. Their vast wine selection includes several carefully-selected organic options. The restaurant even refills their glass ketchup bottles.

Cook’s work as food advocate extends far beyond the everyday decisions she makes for the restaurant. She is so passionate about teaching “people to see the food culture as part of the solution,” that she even serves as a LAUSD chef in the classroom, where she introduces high school students to wholesome cooking. And, inspired by the clubinos of Italy, she recently spearheaded The Sustainable Supper Club, a monthly, four-course, family-style vegan extravaganza for only $25 per person (plus discounts given to Slow Food members, farmers, and bicyclists). The evening celebrates community, conversation and local cuisine.
Who wouldn’t want to be invited to a party full of friends you haven’t met yet?

Cooks Double Dutch, 9806 Washington Boulevard, Culver City. 310.280.0991. cooksdoubledutch.com

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