May 2008 | Healthy Living :: Tastebuds

The Waffle

Hollywood’s home of square meals

By Michael Kaufman

Comfort food — we could all use some from time to time, whether it’s a bowl of soup, burger and fries or plate of waffles. Somehow, no matter how sophisticated our palates, there are times when only the foods that soothe our souls and nurture our emotions manage to fill a certain void.

Yet, comfort food often conjures up feelings of guilt and regret. (Did I really just eat that whole pizza? With all the toppings?) The fat, the calories, the lack of nutritional value... It’s enough to clog your arteries just thinking about it.

But right in the heart of Hollywood, a new restaurant has sprouted that not only promises all the staples of your favorite 24-hour diner, it delivers with both a local, organic twist and an eye on the environment — without any compromises when it comes to selection and flavor.  

Welcome to the Waffle, where the menu boasts a bountiful omnivorous selection ranging from a Vegan Cobb Salad, to an Un-Chicken Salad Sandwich, to Gluten Free Waffles, and “Woofles,” a special treat for four-legged friends. Chef Scooter Kanfer-Cartmill, a formally trained scenic artist and L.A. transplant from New York, personally oversees selection of organic, locally grown produce and cage-free chicken.

A recent visit for lunch proved savory and satisfying. Appetizers of baked macaroni and cheese made with pasta shells and organic cheese-filled tater tots really hit the spot to start off the meal. And as Chef Scooter says, “Who doesn’t love a good tot?“

Marjoram sprinkled atop a cup of soy milk-based carrot soup added a flavorful touch and the vegan chili’s perfect blend of beans, tomatoes and seasoning could have been a full meal by itself. The Un BLT served on sourdough bread with waffle fries was an ideal choice for a vegetarian with a hankering for that old American standard.

But without question, the Blueberry Lemon Waffle was the highlight of the meal: lightly crispy on the outside, perfectly tender inside, and glazed with a sauce made of the freshest, plumpest blueberries. This was but one tasty example of Chef Scooter’s 11 different takes on the restaurant’s namesake item. “After a zillion waffles you get it right,” says the 20-year food veteran.

The Waffle’s culinary comforts are matched by the colorful coziness of its atmosphere, something Chef Scooter likes to call “truck stop chic.” The diner’s high ceilings and glass walls lend a spacious feeling while the carpeted floor absorbs much of the surrounding sound so you can actually enjoy conversation with your dining companions. An outdoor patio in the midst of an urban garden benefits from 50-foot trees lining the street and there’s even a mezzanine level that makes the Waffle a great destination to meet for cocktails or a late night bite (the Waffle is open until 2:30am weeknights, 4:30am on weekends).

With sumptuous choices, accommodating service, and commitments to healthful living and the environment, the Waffle wraps consciousness, convenience and culinary delight all into one. Now that’s comforting.

The Waffle, 6255 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, CA; 323.465.6901, thewaffle.us

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