Long associated with lifestyles of the rich and famous, caviar has experienced a bit of a recession itself in recent years. Add to that the fact that 85 percent of all wild sturgeon species (including beluga) are endangered and no longer imported to the United States, and you might think the art of enjoying caviar is nearing extinction, even if banking isn’t. Yet thanks to increased amounts of farm-raised, sustainable caviar, the delicacy might just be making a comeback—for palates at all price levels.
“The future of caviar lies in finding sustainable methods of bringing caviar to market,” shares Christopher Klapp, general manager of Petrossian West Hollywood, which offers a “Caviar 101” class as well as a full menu of caviar dishes (see sidebar for two recipes). Five of Petrossian’s seven sturgeon species are farm-raised in Northern California, and the other two are wild-caught in the Tennessee Valley region. Adds Klapp, ”The quality of caviar we’re able to produce in a farm-raised environment is surprising to a lot of people.”
Also surprising is the high health factor of the salty treat. According to Klapp, the sodium content is actually much lower than one might expect, and it’s free of trans fats and carbohydrates. Caviar is also chock-full of vitamin B-12 and other nutrients; omega-3 fatty acids and phospholipids are also plentiful.
So what are the ascribed health benefits? Everything from cancer-combatant effects to improved vision, circulation, and brain and immune system function. Caviar has also become a darling of the skincare world, with companies like La Prairie and Porselene now offering caviar-based lines and the Four Seasons Los Angeles’ following suit with a caviar facial spa treatment.
But here’s the real question: does it taste good? Klapp says the world of caviar has something for everyone, likening it to the wide spectrum of wines available. “There are hundreds of varietals of grapes, and every grape has its particular flavor profile—sturgeon is the same way,” he says. And much like wine, caviar also lends itself to some interesting pairings, such as Petrossian’s caviar dip and Chips or La Cachette Bistro’s chocolate caviar truffles. (“I call it sexy food,” says La Cachette Bistro owner Jean-Francois Meteigner, adding that they also use farm-raised caviar).
Regardless of how you try it, Klapp says everyone should taste caviar at least once. “I hate to see people completely write off caviar based on preconceived notions,” says Klapp. “People are still catching on to how varied and interesting caviar can be.”
Cauliflower Soup 
(Serves 4)
½ white or yellow onion, diced
2 medium sized leeks, thinly sliced, white parts only
1 head cauliflower, coarsely chopped
2 c. chicken stock
½ c. heavy cream
6 Tbsp. butter
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 red beet
Oil for frying
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
4 tsp. caviar
Drizzle of olive oil, or other flavored oil (e.g. chive, chile)
Melt butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and leeks. Cook until tender, about 5–7 minutes. Add the cauliflower and cook covered until tender, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, without letting it brown. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15–20 minutes. While soup is cooking, fry beet chips (see below).
Add the heavy cream and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, and let cool for about 5 minutes. Add the soup, in batches, to a food processor or blender, and puree. Ladle the soup into serving bowls and garnish with the beet chips, a teaspoon of caviar and olive oil.
Beet Chips
Heat 2–3 inches of oil in a large frying pan to 300ºF. Peel and slice the beet on a mandolin until it is paper thin. (You may want to use gloves so your hands don’t turn red.) Add the beets to the oil and cook until they lose most of their moisture, when they quit bobbling and float to the surface. Take them out and let them dry on paper towel. Season with salt.
Smoked Sturgeon Risotto
(Serves 4)
6 c. chicken stock, preferably homemade
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter (save 2 Tbsp. for the end)
2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 c. chopped onion
1 ½ c. Arborio rice
28 grams caviar
1 apple, thinly sliced into matchstick-like pieces
1 Tbsp. champagne vinegar
1 pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
1 c. diced smoked sturgeon
In a small saucepan, heat the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt 6 tablespoons butter. Add onions, salt and black pepper and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the grains become a little translucent (without any color or traces of browning). Add 2 full ladles of the chicken stock mixture to the rice. Stir and simmer over medium heat until the stock is absorbed, 5–10 minutes. Continue to add the stock, 2 ladles at a time, stirring every few minutes. Each time, cook until the mixture seems a little dry before adding more of the stock mixture.
While rice is cooking, in a small bowl toss apple slices with champagne vinegar, cayenne pepper and a pinch of salt. Set aside.
Just before the rice is finished cooking add the sturgeon. Continue until the rice is cooked through, but still al dente, about 25–30 minutes total. When done, turn off heat and mix in remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and 20 grams caviar. The risotto should be thick and creamy and not at all dry. Serve individual portions in shallow bowls topped with apple pieces and 2 grams of caviar each.
Recipes by Giselle Wellman of Petrossian
