By Lisa Marie Mouhibian
The earliest American settlers may have been tea-drinkers, but coffee is indisputably king in our culture. So whose bright idea was it to brew up the beans? The most creditable account of coffee’s origins alleges it was one Sheik Omar, a priest and physician from Mocha in Yemen, who was banished to the wilderness of Ousab. There he munched on wild berries, and finding them unpalatable, first roasted and then boiled them, producing a brown liquid. The resulting brew sustained and revitalized him, and word of its magical properties got back to Mocha, then spread to Cairo, Mecca, Constantinople and Europe.
Espresso was first noted in Milan, Italy, in 1945, and eventually made its way to the United States, to be popularized by the Beat Generation in cafes where they gathered for poetry and politics. Now, of course, you can’t throw a rock in an American city without hitting a café of some kind. But the coffee? Quality can vary considerably.
Surprisingly, a good espresso is very low in acid and lower in caffeine content than regular coffee; a one-ounce single espresso has 25 milligrams of caffeine, as opposed to an eight ounce cup of coffee, which packs 135 milligrams. Espresso is loaded with antioxidants and some reputable studies have shown that coffee, and espresso in particular, can actually lower the incidence of diabetes and heart disease, and decrease the risk of certain cancers. It also seems to have a positive health benefit for those at risk of Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s and dementia.
A well-made espresso is thick and rich, with a heady crema and complex notes that range from citrus to hay, to caramel or deep rich chocolate. Luckily for Angelenos, there are amazing organic and Fair Trade espressos all over the city.
Profeta
Westwood
An eclectic student vibe and one of the best, most consistent straight-ahead espressos in L.A. Served short shot, or ristretto, with a shot of sparkling water, from Vivace beans that are roasted within a day or two of being shipped from Seattle. Taste is of rich dark chocolate with a slightly smoky nose and no acidic bite. Be prepared for a very short shot—rich, thick and worth every drop.
Intelligentsia
Pasadena, Venice, Silver Lake
Choose between two different espresso beans: Black Cat Classic (winner of the 2009 U.S. Barista Championship); and the single origin of the day. Black Cat is thick and rich with a heady crema and tastes of caramel, chocolate, honey and toffee with a hint of melon. The single origin has more of a citrus note with lots of overlapping flavors hinting of sour cherry, butterscotch and tamarind, with extreme body and a crema that stands up nicely. Great espresso for a bright summer day.
Urth Caffé
W. Hollywood, Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Downtown,
One of the first Fair Trade coffee importers to the United States, their “strong” espresso tastes of caramel and milk chocolate with hints of butterscotch and a nose of chocolate, caramel and hay tinged with smoke.
Funnell Mill
Santa Monica
With a taste of toasted hazelnuts and a nose of hickory, dark chocolate and a hint of deep caramel, this espresso is fragile and smoky—nuanced beneath a delicate veneer. Its texture is a little on the thin side, in that it does not have the consistency of a straight-up Italian or Seattle espresso, but the slight thinness lends a delicacy to the bean.
Caffe Luxxe
Brentwood, Santa Monica
Served ristretto, this espresso is a deep chestnut/mahogany. It has a nose of chocolate and hickory with a slight tinge of hay and a taste of deep chocolate laced with tobacco. Its texture is smooth and rich with a good crema that stands up to (raw) sugar.
Lamill
Silver Lake
With a nose of caramel, sugar and milk chocolate—and a taste of smoky caramel laced with toffee and milk chocolate—this silky espresso is served ristretto and has a hearty crema.
Coffee Commissary
Fairfax area
An eclectic, industrial, eco-conscious coffee shop specializing in drip, siphon, espresso and blended coffees. Explores different roasts depending on finds. Espresso has a nose of caramel, butter toffee and a taste of caramel w/ a slight hint of citrus, and a smooth texture.
Espresso is wonderful for sipping, but also adds a delicious element to food. Here are a couple of recipes from L.A.’s creative chefs.
Espresso Infused Crostini
Carlitos Gardel Argentinian Cuisine & Steakhouse
1 French baguette
8 oz. mascarpone
2 tsp. thick espresso, cooled (try to include a lot of crema)
1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters
1 c. fresh basil
sea salt
fresh ground pepper
olive oil (for drizzling)
aged balsamic (for drizzling)
Slice the baguette into ¼ inch rounds. Toast until golden. Set aside.
Mix the mascarpone and the cooled espresso in a small bowl with a fork until smooth and amber colored.
Roll basil leaves up like a cigar and slice thinly to create a chiffonade.
Layer each crostini round with the mascarpone/espresso mixture and cut cherry tomatoes. Sprinkle tomatoes with a little sea salt. Place a little basil on top. Drizzle with either olive oil or balsamic, alternating crostinis (the balsamic has more of a bite, the olive oil is smoother, richer) for a contrast in flavor. Sprinkle with fresh ground pepper.
Semifreddo al Caffe
Gino Angelini of Angelini Osteria
(Serves 8)
¼ c. water
½ c. sugar
4 egg yolks
1 c. heavy whipping cream
2 tsp. dried espresso
Boil the water with sugar and espresso for two minutes. Add the egg yolks and whip (in a mixer) until it becomes a cold and creamy zabaione.
Whip the heavy cream, then slowly blend together.
Put in a 2-inch deep by 5-inch diameter container in the freezer for six hours.
Chocolate Sauce
2 c. water
½ c. sugar
¼ c. (heaping) cacao powder (we use Valrhona cacao powder)
Mix well and boil all together. Reduce to ½ cup slowly (close to 1 hour), until it becomes creamy. Cut the semifreddo into pieces and serve with the chocolate sauce.
