As a bright, blue-sky summer afternoon gives way to the softer hues of early evening, there’s not a single available parking spot along the perimeter of Ashland, Oregon’s downtown jewel, Lithia Park. It’s not always this crowded in Ashland, despite tourists flocking in droves to the world-renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s three theatres near the main park entrance and free daily outdoor Green Show. But when there’s yet another free performance at the bandshell—tonight it’s the Ashland City Band—locals and visitors delight in the opportunity for an outdoor picnic with live entertainment.
Situated in a broad, verdant valley in the Siskiyou mountain range of southern Oregon, just 15 miles north of the California border, Ashland is the kind of town conjured by the words “American as apple pie.” It’s also a “transition town,” which means the entire town is collaborating on moving toward a permaculture ethic. “By carefully observing natural patterns characteristic of a particular site, [a transition town] gradually discerns optimal methods for integrating water catchment, human shelter, and energy systems with tree crops, edible and useful perennial plants, domestic and wild animals and aquaculture,” the city’s website explains. Small as it is compared to its busy northern neighbors, Eugene and Portland, the town boasts two weekly farmers markets (largely organic), three natural foods markets (none of them chains), an efficient public transportation system and many miles of bicycle paths.
Even were it not so clearly progressive and community oriented, Ashland has abundant charm. The downtown area, studded with boutiques and art galleries, is small enough to walk from one end to the other, and the year-round population is just 21,000 (though that jumps to an annual six figures with visitors). Add restored turn-of-the-20th-century homes, a top state university and stunning vistas surrounding the Rogue Valley, and you’ll understand why real estate is thriving even in a down economy.
A Town for All Seasons
I first visited Ashland one December after driving up the California coast from L.A. through other transition towns Monterey and Mendocino, then cutting east to the Interstate 5. We’d driven through a blinding snowstorm, but arrived to a light frosting of snow on the treetops. At just 2,000 feet above sea level, the town gets only 10 inches of snow a year, and it usually melts off within a few hours, or just long enough to build a snowman.
Although it was mid-winter at my first visit, a month after the annual Festival of Lights parade lit the square with millions of white fairy lights, it was surprisingly mild –winter’s in-town temperatures usually run in the mid-40s, with lows in the 30s. High on 7500-foot Mt. Ashland, however, the season revealed an abundance of the fluffy white stuff. Ashland hasn’t been called “the next Aspen” for nothing, and it’s only because the ski and snowboard slopes are a short shuttle ride away, rather than in town, that non-millionaires can still afford to live here.
The Ashland climate is great any time of year, and although it isn’t dramatic, there are four distinct seasons. I love to visit in summer when it gets hot enough to swim in Emigrant Lake or the reservoir, and wear skimpy sundresses to outdoor restaurants. But autumn is spectacular, with colors that rival New England in variety and beauty. Days get crisp, and chilly nights are ideal for burrowing under a comforter after a brisk hike or a day exploring regional wineries in nearby Applegate Valley (think Napa, circa 1970), where some vintners still offer tastings on the back porch.
Oregon often conjures images of rain, but Ashland gets a mere 20 inches annually, far less than its neighbors to the north.
Out and About
The Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s celebrated outdoor performances on the Elizabethan Stage stop when nights cool in autumn, but repertory continues at two indoor state-of-the-art theatres into November. There’s a wide selection in fine dining throughout the year, and many of the restaurants offer a number of vegetarian options. The prevailing emphasis is on local and seasonal.
Outdoor adventures can start right in town. Walk up through Lithia Park and if it’s a warm day, stop to cool your heels in the icy mountain runoff of Lithia Creek. Nearby whitewater rafting trips navigate the Rogue River through October, Kokopelli River Guides assures me; and Noah’s River Adventures leads four-day wilderness fishing trips throughout three seasons. There are an abundance of great hikes, and Mountain Sports on the square will happily direct you to a local favorite. At higher elevations, autumn may bring enough snow to cross country ski or snowshoe.
Prefer to exercise indoors? Several yoga studios and gyms in town will gladly welcome you, there’s a vibrant dance community, or you can get a day pass at the well-maintained YMCA. At the end of the day, soak in the hot mineral pool at Jackson Wellsprings at the north end of town, or get a massage at one of several local spas.
If you visit at Halloween, you’ll see the most eclectic small town costume parade you can imagine, possibly even better than the annual 4th of July parade with its record crowds, floats, puppets and marching bands.
Time your visit right and you may also catch the Food & Wine Classic or the Independent Film Festival. And on the first Friday evening of every month there’s an art walk, when dozens of galleries stay open late for strolling art lovers.
There’s an amazing amount of live music in Ashland, and if you’re a jazz fan, you’re in luck. The outdoor Britt Festival in nearby Jacksonville ends at Labor Day, but there are almost as many top-quality musicians making their homes here as there are visual artists, so there’s live music somewhere nearly every night.
Ashland is easy to get to: Get on the 5 freeway and head north for about 11 hours. If you prefer to fly, you can maneuver your own plane right into the Ashland airport, or take a commercial flight to nearby Medford International Airport, just 15 miles up the road.
If you go…
Ashland offers a variety of delightful lodgings and excellent restaurants in every price range. These are just a few favorites.
Where to stay
Country Willows, a classic country inn with a great view on five acres at the edge of the village, offers peace and quiet in a restored 1896 farmhouse or private cottage and barn.
The Inn at Lithia Springs on four acres of organic gardens has its own hot springs, comfortable cottages and an in–house spa.
The Peerless, on the National Register of Historic Places, is both luxurious and serene, with an in-house restaurant.
Where to dine
Liquid Assets wine bar offers more than 20 wines by the glass, or choose from their retail section and add just $5 corkage. Sip along with French-inspired dishes culled from local farms.
Dragonfly Café and Gardens fuses Latin and Asian cuisine. Great vegetarian selection, and all meat, poultry and fish is sustainably farmed and hormone-free. dragonflyashland.com
Amuse offers a Northwest/French menu with organic, seasonal meat and produce, and Oregon and California wines. Reservations essential.
Munchies on the square serves perfectly fine meals, but we go there for pie. Bursting with local, juicy fruit, these pies are the best ever. ashland-oregon-munchies.com
For a quick, inexpensive bite, don’t overlook takeout on the patio from the Ashland Coop market.
