by Jen Jones Donatelli
Take a quick glance at Coast’s menu, and one might mistake it for a rundown of some of Santa Barbara County’s finest farms and seafood providers. From Lompoc’s Tutti Frutti Farms (known for its kabocha squash, fava beans and English peas) to seafood fisherman Steve Escobar’s Ocean Pearl boat (famed for soft prawns, crab, sea urchin and Vermillion 
rockfish), it’s all about locally grown and seasonal sourcing at Coast restaurant, tucked inside downtown Santa Barbara’s playful Canary Hotel.
Sustainably minded diners can thank Chef Brian Parks, a vet of downtown LA’s Water Grill who came to Coast in March 2008. Parks describes the restaurant as more “rustic Americana” at the time, adding
that his mission quickly became apparent: to introduce and incorporate the region’s abundant (and tasty) resources into Coast cuisine. For Parks, making the shift was a no-brainer: “Santa Barbara has [types of] seafood I’ve never seen before,” he says. “Also, the farmers’ market here is full of inspiration.”
The ultimate result? Farm-and-coast-to-table, a brand-new menu concept that was introduced in late 2011. Most ingredients are sourced from within 100 miles of Santa Barbara, and the menu rotates bi-weekly on average. Favorites among regulars include Mojama and Egg, made with potatoes, poquillo chilies and truffles; Roasted Sablefish Black Cod, served with roasted brussels sprouts, Bosc pears and caramelized onions; and a hearty farm-raised local halibut served with Spanish white beans, fennel and tomatoes. Desserts are made in-house with farmers’ market-inspired flavors. (Banana nut bread with cashew milk ice cream and bruleed bananas, anyone?)
Not surprisingly, Parks considers market research to be a big part of his job, and makes frequent trips to the Santa Barbara farmers’ market and nearby farms. After all, how else would he know that Shephard Farms is known for its summer strawberries or that BD Farms is the perfect place to source herbs, spring onions, verdolaga and radishes? One of Parks’ favorite destinations is Goleta’s Cultured Abalone farm, which he says is truly unique. From harvesting kelp to pumping in water from the ocean, the farm’s focus is on creating an organic venue for raising red abalone and Pacific halibut.
“The abalone farm knocks people on their heels because it’s like nothing they’ve ever seen before,” says Parks, adding that Canary offers a hotel package in which Parks takes guests to the farm to source abalone and bring it back for a specially cooked meal.
Hotel and restaurant guests can also get in on the action by accompanying Parks to the farmers’ market and/or taking one of his cooking classes, which are offered regularly at the restaurant. “It’s a fun experience and allows me to get out of the kitchen and play with the guests a bit,” says Parks.
Coast’s sustainable-and-local mindset also extends to beverages, with local wineries and craft breweries taking center stage on the menu. Sip on beers from Carpinteria’s Island Brewing or Santa Barbara’s Telegraph Brewing Company; or enjoy wine selections from such surrounding wineries as Palmina (Santa Barbara), Justin Vineyards (Paso Robles) and Saucelito Canyon (San Luis Obispo).
Though the farm-and-coast-to-table concept is relatively new at Coast, Parks says it has quickly hit its stride—and that it’s been quite an adventure. “Boat captains will text me at 3 am telling me what they have available; it definitely keeps me on my toes,” he laughs. And it’s all part of an ever-developing symbiotic relationship: “In the same way that we’re supporting farmers and fishermen, they’ll support us back, sharing resources and experiences.”
31 West Carrillo St., Santa Barbara 93101, 805.879.9100
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