By Lisa Mouhibian
There’s been plenty of media attention given to the Mediterranean diet and the beneficial effects of olive oil, but as often happens, there’s a catch: What you see or hear is not always what you get.
Pure, high-quality extra virgin olive oil is high in the polyphenols (antioxidants and natural anti-inflammatory agents that help prevent damage from free radicals) also found in blueberries, coffee and chocolate. Polyphenols have been shown to have health benefits against some types of cancer, hypertension, heart disease and even Alzheimer’s. Yet laboratory testing at the University of California at Davis in 2010 of the five top-selling extra virgin olive oils in the United States found that 73 percent failed International Olive Counsel (IOC) standards because they had oxidized, were cut with cheaper refined oil, or had defects, i.e. rancid, “fusty” (defective due to fermenting in the absence of oxygen), or “musty” (caused by moldy olives).
Pure olive oil, freshly cold-pressed from olives crushed at the peak of ripeness and sold within a year or less (and consumed within one year of purchase) packs a myriad of health benefits. A “cut” olive oil or one that has gone rancid not only loses its powerful benefits, but can actually be detrimental to your health.
Olive oils are basically classified as: extra virgin, virgin, ordinary or light. So-called light olive oil is basically a marketing concept, not regulated by any designation, and often indicates the oil was cut with other vegetable oils; the light aspect denotes taste, not calorie count. The best olive oil, and highest in anti-oxidant properties, is labeled as first cold pressed (as in not heated, either directly or through processing) extra virgin olive oil (EVOO).
Oliana, an olive-centric store and tasting bar in West Hollywood owned by entrepreneur Randy Hernandez, deals exclusively in EVOOs that are pressed and bottled according to the guidelines mentioned above. Oliana has an organic seal and all providers meet all qualifications for organic.
Olive oils are displayed in welded-bottom stainless steel Fusti vats (22 at last count), and currently come primarily from Spain, Portugal, Italy and the United States (southern hemisphere is just coming into season). Each vat is labeled showing the source (type and region); harvest and crush date; intensity—mild, medium or robust; and polyphenol count (ranging from 101 to 660—the more robust the olive oil, the higher the count).
Oils here range in flavor from grassy or fruity to floral or peppery. The ones with higher polyphenol concentration (and increased antioxidant benefit) have a characteristic peppery finish that can cause a slight cough at the back of the throat. They also have a low FFA (free fatty acid) count, which indicates a higher smoking point that makes them well-suited for cooking. The high polyphenols help the EVOO retain its antioxidant benefits even when heated.
One of my favorites was the Chilean Early Harvest 2011 Ultra Robust FS17, with a high polyphenol count of 435. It had a nose of bright fruit and low acid with a hint of green apple, and tasted buttery with surprisingly low pepper, which lingered only slightly at the back of my throat.
The milder California Arbequeno had a lower polyphenol level (181) and a grassy nose tinged with citrus. It was delightfully smooth with no peppery afterbite and a slight buttery lingering on the tongue.
Infused oils can include such intriguing notes as garlic, wild mushroom and sage, blood orange, or cilantro and roasted onion. Butter-infused oil is vegan and organic, and tastes extraordinarily like the real thing. Made by extracting the essence of a plant that infuses the oil with a very realistic butter flavor, it could be used on popcorn, to sauté your favorite fish or veggies, or in Hollandaise sauce (see recipe below).
Olive oil is so versatile that at least one local restaurant, Fig & Olive, uses olive oil instead of butter, cream or stock in all their menu selections.
Oliana’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil Hollandaise Sauce
Hollandaise sauce is a thick, buttery sauce typically served in Eggs Benedict, but also delicious with vegetables (think asparagus), chicken and other foods. However, Hollandaise is rightfully viewed as an indulgent, unhealthy sauce due to its butter and eggs. By eliminating one of the problematic ingredients, you can practically eliminate the saturated fat from the sauce without sacrificing flavor.
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp ground white pepper
3 egg yolks
1 c Oliana Butter EVOO, warmed
1 tsp fine sea salt
Cayenne pepper (optional)
Whisk together egg yolks, lemon juice and 1 tbsp of warm water. Add the mixture to the jar of a blender. With the machine continuously running, slowly pour in olive oil, a little at a time. If the mixture thickens too quickly, add a little more warm water. Continue blending, adding remaining olive oil in a thin stream until the mixture emulsifies (thickens). Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 1 1/2 cups
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