Skiing, Sustainability & Santa Fe
By Abigail Lewis
The room is subdued at 7:55am. People are milling about the Hotel St. Bernard dining room chatting softy, sipping coffee. Suddenly the quiet is broken by the sound of a brass bell being vigorously rung, and an elfin man radiating warmth on this chilly mountain morning announces a cheery, “Voila!” His face lights up as he hands each guest a plate of fragrant Eggs Benedict, serving up smiles and quips along with breakfast.
Jean Meyer (pronounced Zhahn Mah-yay) is no ordinary kitchen staff, but the very-hands-on owner of this European style inn he built “section-by-section” at the base of Taos Ski Valley resort. In another hour, when he’s done presiding over the morning meal, he’ll head out to his other job: teaching on the ski slopes, where he’s technical director of the Taos Ski Valley Snowsports School. But he’ll be back in time to serve lunch.
His would be a busy schedule at any age, but it’s hardly what we’ve come to expect from age 78. Smart, hardworking and passionate about nature, Mayer embodies the enterprising New Mexican spirit, and the word “retirement” isn’t even on the horizon. “What matters now,” he says, “is what I can do for people, and with people.”
The Frenchman came to the United States in the 1940s with but a single suitcase—which he still carries in the annual 4th of July parade—and what he’s created (along with eight children and a growing tribe of grands) is more than an inn; it’s an experience. Guests at “the St. B” stay for a meal-inclusive week, dining and socializing around a cozy brass fireplace. Rooms are small but comfortable, and if they’re not entirely soundproof? Pas de problème, we’re all friends here. A peek out the window reveals a village that could be in the Alps. And the food is just what you would hope for from a French executive chef (yes, he’s that, too): Delicious? Oui. Local and organic? Mais bien sûr! Free range? Sans doute.
Those questions could just as easily be answered with a German natürlich, Spanish definitivamente, Navajo oat or Zuni E:, because New Mexico is a diverse melting pot. Native American tribes—22 in all—are very much a part of the culture, Hispanics comprise 46 percent of the population, and like Mayer, people from many countries come here “to enjoy the beauty, peace and mountain lifestyle.”
All Over the Map
My own visit to the Land of Enchantment began in Sante Fe, where flights now arrive nonstop from LAX. Our ultimate destination was the heart of the stunning Sangre de Cristo range, where I’d be skiing for the first time in several years, but we first explored this spiritual and cultural hub that is sustainable foodie heaven. We checked into the only tribally owned hotel in town—the Hacienda at the Hotel Sante Fe—which features luxurious rooms (each with a humidifier and super-efficient gas fireplace) and a stunning collection of original Native 
American art. A mile up the road is the more affordable Sage Inn, which has the added bonus of being right next door to Whole Foods. Both are in the Railyard District, walking distance to a number of shops and restaurants, and a robust farmers market. In line with the state’s new focus on ecotourism, the market is supported by the Sante Fe Farmers Market Institute, with an agenda that includes education and representation of sustainable farming and farmers.
You might not expect “organic and local” to be integral to dining in the state where nuclear bombs were first tested, but in Sante Fe you’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant that doesn’t offer it. And with more than 250 restaurants in a town of 68,000 people, only the best survive. Downtown, an elegant dinner at the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi—old-school elegance with a modern expression—included wild sea bass and a to-die-for seafood risotto. Blue Corn has been the choice for years for killer margaritas, spicy chile relleno and the ubiquitous green chile. Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen serves Harris Ranch beef, free-range organic chicken, wild-caught fish, and homemade cheeses, sausages and pasta. Desserts ranging from zabaglione to cheesecake (please take it away from me!) are guaranteed to fuel you for outdoor activities in and around this atmospheric adobe town that reputedly has the cleanest air in the country.
Before you head to the slopes there are several other don’t miss highlights. Along one side of the central Plaza, generations of Native American artists have spread their artisan-certified wares for tourists to buy. Stop for a chat; prices are reasonable and most are happy to share their process and culture.
You could spend days exploring the New Mexico History Museum. I saw an interesting exhibit of all-things-cowboy, and the well-annotated permanent exhibit includes transparent flooring in the Palace of the Governors to allow viewing of artifacts below. Likewise, the Georgia O’Keefe Museum, which displays its 1100-painting collection in rotation, is a must-see for fans of her evocative artwork.
Scenic Canyon Road boasts more art galleries than some large cities, as well as a seriously fun dance spot, El Farol. We danced to the eclectic, bluesy sounds of Gruve and laughed ourselves silly on a single shot of Fireball; good company and good music are more intoxicating than alcohol. For a more laidback dance experience and nightly live music, try local favorite Cowgirl at the Railyard.
There’s no shortage of inviting hotel spas her but the pièce de résistance is Ten Thousand Waves, a mountaintop Japanese-themed soaking and
healing spa just a few miles from the Plaza. Communal and private tubs are set to a comfortable 104°, and the daring can interrupt the heat with a quick icy plunge. You won’t be sorry if you follow your soak with a healing massage.
Finally, if you’re lucky enough to be in Sante Fe for WinterBrew (local craft beers), as we were, or the eight-week music fest, opera season, Las Posadas (Christmas reenactment) or any of a dozen other festivals, you’ll start wondering if you really have to go home.
Head for the Hills
Outdoor enthusiasts needn’t go far for a workout. A somewhat tortuous 45-minute drive will take you to Ski Santa Fe, where you can enjoy not just great skiing and boarding, but also spectacular views of the entire valley. It’s worth a trip up the mountain even if you don’t ski, and if you visit in autumn you’ll be rewarded with a vista of shimmering golden aspens.
There are eight other ski areas in this beautiful state, and our next stop was Red River, an old mining town with buildings on the register of historic
places. If you happened to visit Aspen 30 or 40 years ago when it was still a funky ski town, you’ll have a sense of what Red River—population 475—is like now. For convenience, you can’t beat the retro Auslander Condominiums located smack dab at the base.
Red River’s endearing charm makes it an ideal family destination, and it was perfect for someone like me, back on the mountain after a several-year lapse. Expert skiers will find enough challenging runs to keep them busy for a weekend, and there’s oodles of beginning and intermediate terrain for those still learning; ski school staff is patient and helpful.
When nature doesn’t supply enough snow, snowmaking machines work overtime to ensure the groomed runs stay amply covered.
A fun evening outing is the “Snow Coach” to the over-10,000-foot summit restaurant. Chef Kai Dunbar at the Ski Tip will expertly prepare dinner for your group (dietary restrictions happily accommodated), escort you back to your chariot, then race down on skis with a headlamp to greet you on your return. Descending in the dark and finishing with a 360° snowcat turn is a thrill.
It’s difficult to bid adieu to this sweet village and friendly people, but returning to Sante Fe through Taos brings additional delights. The artsy town has its own unique culture (don’t miss the Taos Pueblo) and is steeped in the mystical and spiritual. Time permitting, you may also want to head out over the Rio Grande Gorge to check out the Earthship sustainable community.
The town of Taos is about 30 minutes from the ski hill, however, so if you plan to be schussing, try to book at Taos Ski Valley. The ski area is the state’s largest by far, with a wide variety of terrain and enough black diamond runs to please the most aggressive skier. There’s also plenty of glade skiing for those inclined to hike up and “earn their turns,” but don’t let that scare you away if you prefer greens and blues. Locals love to talk about newcomers so daunted at the sight of the steep lower mountain that they’d turn right around and leave. Now there’s a sign, updated to reflect the mountain’s expansion, announcing: “Don’t panic, you’re looking at only 1/30 of Taos Ski Valley. We have many easy runs, too.” But easy is relative and I was glad I’d had a warm-up for their more challenging terrain.
There are plenty of dining options in the village, and the deck at the Bavarian Lodge (which also offers luxury suites) is a favorite ski-in destination for lunch. Or take a shuttle up for a cozy dinner; in this cold climate the classic Bavarian menu is a hit with hearty eaters. Vegetarian choices are limited to spaetzle (homemade Bavarian pasta) and appetizers, but the hewn log building, Alpen ambiance and fresh apple strudel make it worth a visit. Servers wear lederhosen and dirndls and admirably recreate the ambiance of the restaurant’s namesake, and in another classic example of New Mexican diversity, owners Thomas Schulze was German-born, while his wife Jamie has Native American roots.
As the sky turns crimson at the end of an exhilarating day on the mountain, or when you’re ready to wind down after a satisfying dinner, don’t be surprised to find yourself gravitating to comfort and conversation—along with a glass of local craft beer, or wine from a New Mexican vineyard—around the brass fireplace at the St. Bernard. But you probably won’t see Jean Mayer there. Having served dinner to his guests, his workday is finally over.
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