By Abigail Lewis
The time to go to the newest Tanzy, executive cheffed by Bryan Podgorski of French Laundry and Las Vegas’ Bouchon, is now, before the world descends. Situated just east of Westwood Boulevard on Wilshire, with convenient parking in the rear, the entrance feels something like a forest woodland. Distressed vine branches form both a bower and room divider for the Cocoon Lounge, creating a contained nook in this large airy space that also provides access to the luxury iPic movie theatre (the old Avco, for long-timers). The vines weave into the dining area, and the reclaimed wood theme (some here is sourced from 100-year-old barns and factories in the Midwest) carries even into the restrooms.
We were there on a Thursday but there’s no doubt the expansive wraparound bar is jumping on weekend nights; perfectly lit, it’s also an ideal place for people and street watching, staffed by an exceptionally amiable crew. In fact, I need to call out the entire staff because their service was spot on—super-attentive, thoughtful and gracious, but never intrusive.
We began with a fabulous tower of shellfish—tender crab and lobster, clams, mussels and tangy fresh oysters served with a choice of dipping sauces—followed by perfectly grilled octopus, smoky and tender, and a plate of salumi that included robiola, a highly addictive cheese that’s kind of a cross between mozzarella and Explorateur.
Salad of wilted spinach was delightfully punctuated with wine-poached pears, bits of pork belly and sprigs of Italian parsley, which I was happy to see treated as a vegetable rather than just garnish.
Pan-seared Scottish salmon came in a tomato broth studded with “melted” leeks and shellfish so good it could stand on its own. I don’t often eat red meat but after one bite of juicy Snake River Farms Grilled New York Steak with onion jam, salsa verde and sautéed broccolini, I couldn’t resist several more.
For dessert, unless you have a super-sweet tooth, skip the tooth-tingling tiramisu in favor of creamy, berry-strewn panna cotta or Torta di Cioccolato with salted caramel and banana gelato. Or finish with a flourish and have an Under the Tuscan Sun Martini made from carrot-saffron vodka and crowned with a scoop of lemon sorbetto.
10840 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood 90024, 310.307.7004
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