Like Romeo and Juliet or Tristan and Isolde, wine and chocolate are forever entwined
By Lena Katz
“It is well to remember that there are five reasons for drinking: the arrival of a friend; one’s present or future thirst; the excellence of the wine; or any other reason.”
—Anonymous Latin saying
Empires may fall and languages evolve, but the human need for pleasure remains constant. And while rational people from ancient Rome to current day would caution against excessive amounts, most agree that Valentine’s Day is just the right time to indulge in wine and chocolate.
It doesn’t even have to be a guilty splurge. Dark chocolate is known to contain antioxidants as well as cocoa phenols (polyphenols) that lower blood pressure. Red wine is loaded with resveratrol (a fave of the anti-aging cadre) and other antioxidants, in addition to red wine polyphenols. Plus, the movement toward natural, organically grown, handcrafted foods has improved winemaking and chocolate-making alike—putting the emphasis on carefully crafting the best product and savoring it as an expression of the moment.
WLT consulted a bevy of wine professionals who have the arduous task of evaluating wines on a daily basis to come up with our perfect pairings for any day you feel like celebrating, whether it’s being in love or being alive.
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Dan Perrelli of the Wine Hotel, L.A.
Dragonette Sauvignon Blanc, Lompoc
“The first time we tasted Dragonette, it was direct, honest, and had a depth of flavor without a heaviness of fruit, that is rare. That came from careful winemaking. Winemakers are artisans, and artisans are interpreters of the natural world. It’s not something that springs from their brain; it springs from the natural things around them. Brandon of Dragonette is an artisan.”
Dragonette philosophy: Minimalist in the vineyard and as close to dry-farmed as possible.
Notes: This boutique label sources from various vineyards, paying for grapes by the acre. Winemaker Brandon Sparks-Gillis holds that the next big thing in the natural winemaking evolution will be the movement toward dry farming—i.e., farming with what nature gives you, water-wise. This is for two reasons. First, the French concept of terroir: with limited irrigation, the vine sends roots deeper, which creates a heartier vine that bears fruit with more characteristics of the soil. Second, in areas that don’t get a lot of rain, it’s environmentally responsible to use as little water as possible.
Sparks-Gillis describes the sauvignon blanc as a “richer style, with pineapple notes,” as opposed to the often grassy/citrusy flavor profile of Santa Barbara sauvignon blancs. The grapes for this wine come from two different vineyards, one of which is old-vine and dry-farmed.
Chocolate pairing: Native Gardens pineapple-coconut chocolate truffles or chocolate raspberry truffles. Made with organic ingredients, this vegan chocolate is gluten-free, lactose-free and low-calorie. The company is based in L.A. and Florida, and widely available in Southern California natural food stores.
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Hilary Fuss, Estate Wines Ltd.
Beckmen Vineyards Biodynamic Grenache Rose, Santa Ynez
“Beckmen Vineyards has been on the forefront of biodynamic winemaking in this region. Many wineries have worked through this lengthy process to create biodynamic wines, but often it has resulted in diminished quality. With Beckmen’s transition to biodynamic farming, the wines have actually improved, thus proving that this is really true to how the wines should be made. Steve Beckmen is helping other wineries in the area transition to biodynamic farming.
“The fruit used for the grenache rose is designated especially for the rose; it is not a by-product of making some other wine. It is also an outstanding value and the style remains consistent.”
Beckmen philosophy: A Santa Barbara frontrunner in biodynamic winemaking.
Notes: (From the winemaker) Hand-selected grapes, 100 percent estate-grown at Beckmen’s Purisima Mountain Vineyard. Cold-soaked for 12-48 hours (a process that extracts tannins from the skins and stems, rather than from seeds, and is believed by some to increase aromatic intensity). Final product: “Zesty and crisp, with a light copper hue, strawberry and spice aromas, and racy peach and leather notes.
Chocolate pairing: Chuao Chocolatier in Carlsbad uses responsibly sourced Venezuelan cacao and natural ingredients to create “fusion chocolates” with a variety of unusual flavor profiles that will appeal to people who don’t like sweets.
In this case, to balance the crispness of the rose, a sweeter pairing made sense: Modena ChocoPod, made with premium dark chocolate and filled with strawberry caramel with a hint of balsamic. (Side note: it’s only 50 calories and 1 Weight Watchers point!)
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Stephen Abronson, Pourtal, Santa Monica
Malibu Vineyards Estate Single Vineyard Syrah
“A rich, lush and well-balanced syrah. The high acid and integrated tannins make it so versatile. Pair it with anything from paté de canard to a chocolate soufflé, and let your senses indulge.”
Malibu Vineyards philosophy: Handcrafted single vineyard estate wines, made from sustainably grown grapes.
Notes: Owner/winemaker Jim Palmer takes the “handcrafted, artisan” approach to winemaking, and also estate-grows his fruit. The “single vineyard” designate is important to people who believe in terroir (“sense of place” or expression of the soil). He grows his estate grapes according to Central Coast Vineyard Team sustainable farming practices.
Recent releases of this syrah have won silver and bronze medals. It’s described as “fruit forward” with “bold, rich flavors.”
Chocolate pairing: Foodies, take a chance on Pourtal’s signature Grevenbroecker cheese and chocolate crostini made with ChocoVivo chocolate—beans grown organically in Mexico and stone-ground with lava rocks in Culver City.
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Chef Guillaume Burlion, Sunset Marquis Hotel, West Hollywood
Surfrider Pinot Gris, Malibu
“Surfrider pinot is elegant and can be paired with many different fruits and cheeses, as well as fish dishes, or with chocolate. It’s not overpowering at all.”
Surfrider philosophy: Working toward SIP sustainability certification
Notes: This wine is part of the Rosenthal—Malibu Estate portfolio (RosenthalEstateWines.com). It is an excellent example of community-minded business because not only is it vinted in Malibu, but a part of all proceeds goes to the locally based environmental non-profit, Surfrider Foundation.
Chocolate pairing: Chef Guillaume finds this wine “simply divine” with a chocolate soufflé. To source organic chocolate for the soufflé, he recommends Santa Barbara Chocolate Co.
One last note from Santa Barbara wine-makers and your sweet tooth: Don’t miss the artisan truffles of Jessica Foster Confections. Jessica sources fresh ingredients at the local farmers market, works with wineries to create custom pairings, and packages her handmade creations in recycled-material boxes—making her something of a Central Coast poster girl for the local/ seasonal/sustainable food movement.
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Definitions and Designates
Labels used in wine production make food labels look like child’s play. For example, wine can be made from organic grapes but not be organic wine, and in either case, it may not be noted anywhere on the label.
A brand new statewide certification category, just announced last month, will hopefully simplify things for eco-aware wine drinkers. The California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA) will provide third-party verification of a winery or vineyard’s voluntary adherence to a “process of continuous improvement” in the adoption and implementation of sustainable winegrowing practices. To be eligible for the Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing program, applicants’ winery and/or vineyard operations will be assessed for 58 prerequisite criteria, and they’ll be required to create and implement an annual action plan and show improvement over time. This is the first statewide certification program available to both wineries and vineyards. It will take some time to implement, so in the interim, if you are sensitive to additives (and let’s face it, who isn’t?), look carefully before you sip.
Wine from organically grown grapes is the term now used to describe wines that were once considered “organic” before the USDA began regulating. These wines come from pesticide-free, non-interventional, carefully farmed vineyards. They are largely considered by connoisseurs to be among the most consistently highest-quality wines, but most producers do not specify “organically grown” on the bottle, and very few work with the USDA NOP.
Certification: USDA National Organic Program, Ecocert (France), CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) and others
Organic wine is a legal designation created by the USDA, and means the wine is made from organically grown grapes and has no SO2 (sulfur dioxide, a natural product acting as an antioxidant, antimicrobial) added. The restriction on sulfites can compromise the stability of the wine. Some wine industry professionals feel Certified Organic has come to be more of a marketing tool than anything else.
Certification: USDA National Organic Program, Ecocert (France), CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) and others
Vins naturels/vinos naturales take non-interventional winemaking practices still further. Nothing can be added within the vinification process, which leaves the wine somewhat less stable for traveling. (Usually, sulfur, fining agents, yeast for fermentation, various forms of acidulation, sugar, and enzymes are used in some combination.) Also, the vineyards must be organically grown or biodynamic. This movement is mainly in France and Spain, where there is no legal definition of organic wine. Although few non-inoculated wines (made without addition of yeast) are produced in America, a few imported vin naturel wines are available for purchase in wine shops and restaurants.
Certification: None yet
Sustainable wine is a hot-button term—as is sustainability itself—and some people feel it’s largely unquantifiable. However, the general tenets are: organic/non-interventional farming combined with socially and ecologically responsible manufacturing/business practices, and the long-term vision to stay in business, supporting yourself and your community. While sustainability has its detractors, U.C. Davis has a sustainable agriculture program, and various organizations, like the California Sustainable Winegrowers Alliance, have formed to promote and regulate sustainable winemaking practices.
Certification: SIP (Sustainability in Practice), California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance
Biodynamic winemaking is based on the philosophies of Rudolph Steiner. It is similar to organic farming (which it pre-dates by most accounts), but it employs a complex composting/fertilizing system, integrated livestock, and a strict “timing” system based on lunar rhythms.
Certification: Demeter
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