Sustainable Surprise: West Inn & Suites
The term “farm-to-table” may be reaching its saturation point in most culinary circles, but West Inn and Suites is set on restoring its meaning with its distinctly different “A Night with Chef” offering. Just 10 minutes away from the Carlsbad-based hotel sits the three-acre West Farm, where chefs and visitors can harvest organic vegetables, fruits, grains and herbs—and marvel at giant sunflower patches.
“There aren’t too many chefs in the world with their own farms,” says farm manager Luke Girling. “This is the definition of local [cuisine]—if I were a chef, I’d be stoked.”
As are the hotel guests, who, for the last year, have been able to take advantage of a “Night with Chef” package. Participants are treated to an educational farm tour during the day, followed by a six-course “surprise” meal specially prepared using the daily harvest. (The farm accounts for at least 50 percent of the fresh ingredients used at the restaurant.) Girling leads the farm tour, which encourages noshing on such delights as fresh-picked figs, cranberry beans, chocolate mint and/or heirloom tomatoes. The property is sandwiched by an equestrian farm and the 60-acre Valdivia tomato farm, which makes the outing all the more scenic.
Later that evening, it all ties together with the surprise prix fixe dinner. The presence of the West Farm is heavily felt, from fresh sunflowers on the tables to edible flower garnishes. Each night the tasting menu differs based on chef’s whim and what’s ripe, but one might expect such dishes as Carrot Melange, Lobster & Fennel or Wagyu strip steak with potato confit. For those who opt for wine pairing, sommelier Tom Bertrand is also on hand to explain each specially chosen selection. (Be prepared to spend a full evening, as the fine dining experience can take three to four hours.)
It’s all about furthering the connections among consumer, chef and farmer—and making it feel decadent and delightful. Says Girling, “Every day is a new adventure.”
$110/person for the “Night with Chef” farm tour/six-course dinner (add $50/person for wine pairing). 4970 Avenida Encinas, Carlsbad 92008; 760.448.4500 www.westinnandsuites.com and www.weststeakandseafood.com
Fruit of the (Heir)Loom: Four Seasons Westlake Village
Craving a feast fit for a king? Let Four Seasons Westlake Village whisk you away to Thousand Oaks-based Philen Pharms, which houses rare organic heirloom produce—from petite Mirabelle plums originally planted by King René d’Anjou to hard-to-find Niunai persimmons that once graced the tables of the Ming Dynasty.
“We culture everything organically, but what makes us really special are the varieties dating back centuries—our trees are up to 400 years old,” says proprietor Tim Philen, who refers to himself as an “heirloom fruit evangelist.” “We preserve great tastes that were in danger of disappearing from the earth altogether.”
A noble endeavor, but how does he do it? Philen is part of a farming movement centered on perpetuating heirloom fruit varieties, which is accomplished by planting branches in order to propagate the ancient trees. Most of the trees require colder climates, but Philen’s prime perch at 1,200-ft. elevation in the Santa Monica Mountains makes it possible for him to do what other regional farmers can’t.
“We’re barely on the cusp of being able to pull this off,” says Philen. “Typically these trees can’t survive in Southern California, which is why the chefs at the Four Seasons very much appreciate these fruits.”
Thus began the “Heirloom Farming Extraordinary Experience,” a two-night hotel package highlighted by a Philen Pharms tour and private picnic lunch prepared by Four Seasons chef Alex La Motte. (A menu favorite: Tarte tatin made with Calville Blanc d’Hiver white apples, a staple in French gourmet cooking.) Once back on the Four Seasons property, a private garden tour and dietician-led cooking lesson conclude the delicious day.
“[At Philen Pharms] we roam the orchards and have a little eating tour,” says Philen. “Since everything is organic, you can eat it right off the tree—from great old English apples to French pears that haven’t been seen in decades.”
$2600 for two-night package and accommodations. Four Seasons Westlake Village, 2 Dole Drive, Westlake Village 91362; 818.575.3000 www.fourseasons.com/westlakevillage
Luxurious Learning: Carmel Valley Ranch
Imagine summer camp for culinaires (but far more luxurious). At any given time, the jam-packed activity calendar at Carmel Valley Ranch includes everything from beekeeping lessons to winemaker dinners to “Ask the Farmer” Q&A sessions. Even a simple walk around the grounds is designed to provide edible inspiration, thanks to a two-acre organic garden, salt house, lavender fields, hen house and vineyards on site.
It’s all part of the big-picture holistic experience for which the picturesque Carmel Valley Ranch has become known. “[The property] attracts people who are looking to enjoy life and engage their senses,” explains executive chef Tim Wood. “We want people to come and engage, then walk away with the concept and philosophy.”
That philosophy is centered on eating “seasonally, locally and sustainably,” according to Wood. For the ranch cuisine, Wood works closely with local farmers and culls ingredients from around the property (such as homemade sea salt and organic produce). Fresh seafood is delivered daily from nearby Monterey, and Wood also serves on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Blue Ribbon Task Force (which helps consumers make sustainable seafood choices). “We’re all about [harnessing the] wonderful fruits and bounty of the region,” adds Wood.
One of the most popular activities at the Ranch is the “Bee Experience,” which allows visitors to play beekeeper for a day and get an inside glimpse at the workings of an apiary—where more than 60,000 Italian honeybees reside. Four days a week, beekeeper John Russo leads groups through the experience, which kicks off with a glass of lavender-honey lemonade and culminates in the opportunity to closely observe the pollination and honey-making processes.
Available by special request and for groups, the “Garden Walk & Cooking Demo” is another must-try. The 2.5-hour experience starts with a stroll through the organic garden led by Wood and farmer Mark Merino, followed by a lively one-on-one cooking lesson and lunch in the “Adventure Kitchen.”
“We might pick thyme on the tour and use it to make butternut squash soup, or visit the lavender fields and learn how to make a simple lavender cookie,” says Wood. “The idea is for people to get comfortable with the ingredients and techniques; we keep the demo lighthearted so that people feel as if they’re in our home.”
$60 per adult and $40/child for the Bee Experience; $175/person for the Garden Walk/Cooking Demo/Lunch. Carmel Valley Ranch, One Old Ranch Road, Carmel 93923; 866.405.5037 www.carmelvalleyranch.com
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This article is a part of the December/January 2014-15 issue of Whole Life Times.