Arizona Dreaming

Arizona is an exciting destination for innovative, delightful hotels, green living, and great veg food and drink. From musical instruments crafted from outdated bits of technology to hand-crafted beer, there’s a veritable treasure trove of unexpected adventures and vacation destinations.

We started in Phoenix. The Found:Re Hotel is in the heart of downtown’s art district. And art is the key to this sleek industrial-chic hotel, which has its own gallery, and art everywhere from hallways to rooms. The vibe is hip, fun, and luxurious from bath products to bedding in a gorgeous loft-style room. The hotel is the environmentally friendly conclusion of an adaptive reuse project, bringing back to life a building that formerly housed the long-closed Lexington Hotel. Works by more than two dozen artists are displayed throughout; from a large-scale mural of Burt Reynolds on a bear rug behind the reception desk, to the unique, one-of-a-kind mixed-media room numbers designed by Cheryle Marine. Match Cuisine & Cocktails offers inventive fare in a stylish setting; French toast, muffins, frittata, and fresh fruits and juice made a wonderful breakfast. It’s a terrific concept that supports local artists and the idea of re-purposing all in one lovely package.

We had dinner at the inventive, rewarding Ocotillo, where locally-sourced menu items are served with style in a busy, open dining room. We loved the roasted heirloom carrots with a coconut-based ginger yogurt, lime marmalade, and Thai basil. Buckwheat tortiglione with black kale and roasted tomatoes makes another terrific veg choice. And don’t miss the eggplant “meatballs.” Sip high-end signature cocktails and fresh coconut water served in the coconut. Chef Walter Sterling is a wonder.

We spent an afternoon at The Phoenix Art Museum, taking in dazzling contemporary exhibitions such as Carlos Amorales’ Black Cloud, inspired by the annual migration of monarch butterflies and containing 25,000 black paper moths.

At the rooftop pool at the Kimpton Hotel, just a stone’s throw from Phoenix’s Talking Stick Arena, the view of the downtown skyline is stellar, and the water is blissfully warm. Exuding urban contemporary style, the rooms are spacious and suites dramatic; they feature a stunning “wet room” with a soaking tub within a shower area perfect for post-yoga bliss. Yes, yoga: there are Gaiam yoga mats in every room, and on-demand yoga and Pilates programming. For an environmentally friendly option to explore Phoenix, enjoy trendy, complimentary PUBLIC bikes. Janet Echelman’s public art sculpture Her Secret is Patience makes a fine, glowing evening destination.

A world away from the urban pleasures of Phoenix is Bisbee — the epitome of environmentally friendly: the entire town is repurposed, from a copper mining mecca in 1890 to an enclave of art, music, craft brews, and great vegan and vegetarian food. We stayed at Canyon Rose Suites, listed on the National Historic Registry. Expansive spaces are perfectly restored, including full kitchens, and allergen-barrier bedding.

We loved the well-curated Bisbee Mining and Historical Museum packed with insightful information about the history of the town and mining, and an astonishing collection of gems and minerals from the area. It’s the first rural affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution.

Speaking of history, we also took in The Old Bisbee Ghost Tour. The docent-led walking exploration of the town’s sometimes-spooky past is a great 90-minutes of fun.

Another don’t-miss is the Lunatic Fringe Luthiery, where the “Blues Wizard” creates an awe-inspiring array of instruments of repurposed materials from suitcases to oil drums, keeping, as he puts it, “music alive and items out of our landfills.” If you’re lucky, the talented musician will play for you. And be sure to stop in Sam Poe Gallery, where unique paintings and sculptures by the artist-owners will dazzle; some include repurposed found-objects.

Whatever you do in Bisbee, come hungry. At the warm and sunny Ana’s Seasonal Kitchen, a delightful brunch included a cranberry-glazed vegan donut that’s reason alone to stop in. But the blue corn biscuits, spinach salad, crisp focaccia with tomato compote, and a Spanish omelet are reason, too, and reveal owner Ana Borrajo’s Spanish heritage as well as her Southwest present. Vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options abound.

Vegan is the word at Poco, where owner Kelly Galligan presides over a cheerful indoor/outdoor space featuring salads, nachos, quesadillas, and fajitas – all vegan, with an organic and non-GMO focus.

The Bisbee Hospitality Group, helmed by Michael Page, is a family business whose members literally grew up in town. The charming Santiago’s Mexican offers a full bar with great margaritas, and robust menu items including mouth-water green corn tamales, and chile rellenos. Dessert: the Mayan Chocolate Pudding. The group also owns Bisbee Coffee Company, sublimely located over a vortex, for a peaceful vibe along with your almond milk mocha latte, or Mexican hot chocolate. Beans are brewed in-house, and pastries are made onsite: try a gluten-free chocolate chip muffin or light-as-air cranberry orange scone.

At Bisbee’s Table, enjoy the Fresh Thai Salad with radish sprouts, cabbage, cashews, and peanut soy vinaigrette, or a Bisbee Slaw salad; the San Ramon with spinach, pears, and pecans is customizable from the standard version which includes fluffy goat cheese. There’s a hearty veggie burger on the menu; gluten-free bread and pasta are always available. So are craft brews.

Speaking of craft beer, a visit to the friendly Old Bisbee Brewing Company will get you a tasting menu of terrific beers with your mountain view; try the smooth brown Copper City Ale, first brewed in town in 1881, or the super-pale, champagne-like Salut. Want a bite to eat? Try the wonderful vegan chili straight from Rod Kass, owner of Bisbee’s top-end eatery, Café Roka.

Café Roka is destination dining — locally sourced, fine-casual. Kass serves a multi-course meal including soup, salad, sorbet, and entrée. Dishes change seasonally. We had tomato cauliflower curry soup, salad with Dijon dressing, a lemon/lime sorbet, and vegetarian lasagna. Go vegan with the delightful Chile Poblano & Sweet Corn Risotto Cakes. Desserts are terrific, too.

After a stop in Tombstone – where the past is preserved with a fun reenactment of the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, and authentic original structures are now lively tourist attractions, we moved on to Tucson.

Talk about repurposed property: the McCoy Hotel was once a 1960s-era motel re-imagined with the catch phrase “Art. Wine. Coffee.” From the fully restored original pool to murals on every exterior surface created by Arizona artists, you’ll want to stroll the grounds to take it all in. Each room has a green tea memory-foam mattress, and organic sheets. The lobby bar serves up tasty fresh morning oatmeal with toppings from nuts to chocolate chips; coffee is Tucson-brewed; beer and wine are local, too – with one glass of either gifted to arriving guests.

No visit to Tucson would be complete without a stop at Old Tucson, nestled at the foot of the Saguaro Mountains. Step back in time at authentically preserved old film sets, learn about film making history and Arizona lore; ride a stagecoach, and thrill to stunt fights. Dine on delicious vegan jackfruit BBQ at Big Jake’s.

At the Tucson Art Museum, we loved Carlos Estevez’ Entelchy, capturing human spirituality through metaphysical works; Arizona artist Patricia Carr Morgan’s immersive Blue Tears movingly reveals the fragility of un-replenished glacial ice.

Explore nature yourself at Saguaro National Park – enjoy expansive views, native hieroglyphs, and terrific hikes amid the saguaros.

Our second night’s stay was right at the park’s doorstep: Cat Mountain Lodge, an eco-friendly B&B in a vintage ranch setting. Hiking and biking trails, burbling fountains, and a small sculpture garden are at your doorstep; each unique room features lush, local heirlooms and artwork.

For a final Arizona meal, the original family-run El Charro is a 95-year tradition of abundant, fresh, and flavorful Mexican food. We visited the buzzing, modern El Charro del Mar. At all the small chain’s locations, there’s a new item on the menu with a planned national roll-out – it’s already available at Maryland’s Baltimore-Washington International Airport. That item is vegan, which owner Ray Flores calls “the future of food.” It’s a delicious, protein-rich hemp tamale, with a textured, nutty flavor that includes hemp, flax, and chia seeds. It goes great with a Prickly Pear Margaratini. Dessert? Champagne fried strawberries. It’s a perfect meal – for Arizona explorers, and the planet.

So, if you are looking for an easy, eco-friendly get-away, visit Arizona! This time of year is just perfect!

Resources: