Fresh and seasonal have become almost ubiquitous in Los Angeles fine dining, but add Southern flair and you have somethingentirely different. At Napa Valley Grille in Westwood, chef Taylor Boudreaux’s Cajun family roots intersect with his wife’s Indian heritage for an inspired multicultural cuisine.
Our meal began with a delightful concoction of mascarpone and sweet corn, followed shortly by a Warm Brussels Sprouts Salad. I adore Brussels sprouts, especially crunchy as they are prepared here, but add pancetta and manchego cheese, and that could be my entire meal. Pan-seared Scallops with a parsnip purée were perfectly cooked, and Alaskan Halibut had a distinctly Iberian flair, with roasted tomatoes, Spanish olives and capers.
Lamb is made fabulous by the sauce that adorns it, and in this case it hearkened to the east with garam masala, raita and cilantro-mint chutney, all staples in Indian kitchens.
A Southern style dessert of Butterscotch Bread Pudding with house-made marshmallow topping was overkill for this reviewer, but those with a sweet tooth will be more than satisfied.
Getting back to the fresh and seasonal, Napa Valley Grille actually serves as a distribution center for two community-supported agriculture (CSA) delivery services, Drake Family Farms and Country Fresh Herbs, so there’s never any question as to the freshness of its produce.
The dining room is sprawling, but a large open fireplace makes it feel warm and convivial, and the Westwood location makes it readily accessible. With several holiday specials coming up, it’s definitely worth a trip.
—Abigail Lewis
—1100 Glendon Ave., Los Angeles 90024, 310.824.3322
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