There is no denying that some of the best raw food dishes are downright challenging to prepare. Several steps may be involved, often beginning with “sprouting” nuts, seeds or grains, and ending with as much as 48 hours of dehydration.
My new cookbook, Entertaining in the Raw, is written in honor of these more elaborate (but very worthwhile) recipes that challenge the cook and please the guest. The recipes in this book require attention, persistence and care and deserve to be celebrated and enjoyed by those who are fortunate enough to eat them. While they do call for specialized equipment — such as a Vita-Mix* blender and a food dehydrator — think of these tools as capital investments that will give you a far greater return on your money.
The first time I stepped into a raw food kitchen, I knew that I had discovered something magical. My rule of thumb is to always consider nature — if something is many steps removed from nature, or if you don’t know how it is made, then it’s probably not suitable. From food to setting, raw should be as pure an experience as possible. Enjoy!
*The Cadillac of blenders, the Vita-mix has become the de facto secret weapon of the raw foods community. Although it will set you back a cool $400-$700 (depending on the model), its legions of diehard fans say it lasts forever and makes it easy to whip up the most complicated of raw treats, from nut and grain “cheeses,” to frozen fruit desserts, to fresh juices to one-step soups.
Arugula Gnocchi, Sweet Pepper Sauce, Marinated Asparagus, and Pine Nut “Parmesan”
Serves 4–6
Gnocchi
2 cups chopped jicama, processed in food processor and strained
1 cup cashews, soaked 1–2 hours
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon nutritional yeast
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
Black pepper
1/4 cup cashew flour
1/2 cup chopped arugula
Sauce
1 cup cashews, soaked 1–2 hours
1 cup diced red bell pepper, dehydrated 12 hours
1/4 cup coconut meat
1/4 fresh red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
Black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 pinch cayenne pepper
Asparagus
1/2 bunch asparagus
Olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
“Parmesan”
2 cups pine nuts
½ cup water
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon sea salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
For the gnocchi, mix the first six ingredients in a large bowl. Blend in batches in a Vita-Mix until very smooth. Place mixture in large bowl and stir in cashew flour and arugula by hand. Shape into gnocchi and gently roll on dehydrator screens to create gnocchi pattern. Place in dehydrator for 2–3 hours or until crust forms around outside. Serve immediately, or warm in dehydrator until ready to serve.
For the sauce, blend all ingredients in Vita-Mix until smooth. Warm in dehydrator until ready to serve.
Cut the asparagus on a bias into 1½-inch lengths. Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Dehydrate on Teflex sheets for 30–40 minutes.
For the “parmesan,” process all ingredients in a food processor until well combined. Spread in 1/8-inch thick slices on Teflex sheets in a dehydrator and heat until it becomes firm, about 12 hours. Turn over Parmesan sheets onto dehydrator screens and continue dehydrating for 24 hours. Remove, let cool, and break into 2- or 3-inch shards. Keep covered.
When plating, coat the bottom of the plate with sauce. Place gnocchi on sauce, and garnish with asparagus and “Parmesan.”
New York-based chef, restaurateur, caterer and food writer, Matthew Kenney has been the chef and partner of numerous restaurants, including Matthew’s, Canteen, Commune, Mezze and The Plant. He is the author of several cookbooks, including Everyday Raw and Raw Food Real World. The above was excerpted by arrangement with Gibbs Smith Publisher (gibbs-smith.com) from Kenney’s new cookbook, Entertaining in the Raw. Keep up with his rawventures at matthewkenneycuisine.com.